New Townmouse patterns in Paperie by Amy Sinibaldi
Eloise Gathered Top PDF pattern now available

Understitching - a quick tutorial

I put the request out on the Townmouse Patterns Facebook Group for some proof-reading help on the just released Eloise Gathered Top pattern. Some gorgeous girls came to my rescue and I have now incorporated their valuable feedback to make the pattern the best it can be.

Candice, one of my most trusted, regular pattern testers mentioned understitching. This wasn't a term I was familiar with, even though I regularly use the technique.  I just don't call it by its right name.

So I thought I'd show you a little step-by-step of the understitching technique, that you can refer to when whipping up the Eloise Gathered Top.

Understitching is used when facing a neckline or opening of a garment and you want to keep the facing in place and stop it rolling to the outside of the garment and being seen.  The under stitching holds it neatly in place inside the garment.

Understitch tutorial

1. With right sides together, stitch the facing to the front garment piece.

Under stitch 1

2. Trim back the seam and, where your seam is curved, clip into it at intervals.

Under stitch 2

3. Press the seam allowance towards the facing.

Under stitch 3

4. Working from the right side and very closely to the seam line, stitch the seam allowance to the facing.

Under stitch 4

5.Now press the pattern pieces into place.

Under stitch 5

6. From the wrong side you should be able to see the garment's main fabric, as the seam line is rolled slightly to the inside.

Under stitch 7

7. From the outside you will not be able to see any facing.

Under stitch 8

This little Eloise top is going to the newborn sister of one of Adelaide's school friends.  It's size 0 (6 to 12 months) so I hope it will be the perfect fit for her next summer.

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